The manual is divided into sections which are subdivided into chapters. new ones make a lot better bale being hard core.Appropriate service methods and correct repair procedures are essential for the safe, reliable operation of all equipment, as well as the personal safety of the individual performing the repair - you will find in this manual.
i think its just what it is with these old balers. my bales are decent but i dont like the way the twine comes loose and drags on some bales once moving bales. i have never used a round baler till i bought this one so just learned on my own. i would not keep pto running when opening door. have used my cockshutt 1550 gas but it quite a load for it. i bale with my 660 ih and it handles it good.
my baler dont have a shear pin in the pto as someone welded it solid so i have to really watch when bale marker gets to the full mark. then open rear door and engage pto just enough to kick out the bale. i just idle the tractor while tying also. i have the flow control on hyd.turned right down down so the twine arm moves slowly. i stop and wrap them with twine but try not to get to close to the edge with the twine. travel a ways on one side then move to the other side. dont just weave back and forth as i see some people do. also move from right to left when baling so the hay compresses evenly.
i have found that traveling slower seams to make the bales more firm. I have several NH 851 balers I use,you can set it for solid or open centers to start with,also to make the bales tighter you need to tighten the main springs more.Get an owners manual to make sure you're doing it right because if you don't you may cause it to break the big chain.Then rake as big of a windrow as you can get over easily with the tractor,run a good amount of RPM with a slow ground speed while baling.Then after you tie the bale cut off the PTO and completely raise the door,if the bale doesn't roll out GENTLY bump the PTO to make the bottom chains kick out the bale.Shut the PTO off then lower the door.And then Gently engage the PTO to start the baler again and then make another bale.To make a good bale I alternate running hay into the outsides of of the bale chamber the center will take care of itself that makes the bales have a good straight outside shoulder and the string will stay on the bale better.Also you need to have the string as tight as you can coming out of the twine box and still get it to start a bale easily. Any tips on settings and advice would be greatly appreciated. I am worried if I tighten the apron chain or tension springs to much I could break the apron chain and have a huge problem. Maybe I'm not putting enough twine on the bales? Need to adjust apron chain tension or maybe need to adjust tension springs? Only adjustment I have made was tighten the twine tension plates.
My bales are so loose and twine seems to kind of slip off and not keep bale tight. Second question, how do you make a tighter bale with these balers. Does anyone have any experience with keeping the PTO running when ejecting a bale? Seems to me starting and stopping the PTO is hard on the baler and also when the floor chains start up again it rips the bale some giving it a mohawk look and bale will fall apart easier. Per the operating manual to eject a bale, it says to stop the PTO, raise the tail gate, then start PTO again to allow floor chains to convey the bale out. The baler is equipped with a single arm hydraulic twine wrapper. I am a very small operation making less than 100 bales currently a year, hence the older cheaper baler.
I am looking for some tips on how to get a tighter bale and to keep if from falling apart. I am new to baling and have been using an NH 851 baler for the past two years.